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Climbing Rope Stuff

August 24, 2017

 

1. What kind of rope to choose from

A. Semi-static rope

Designed for caving and canyoning, they are medium in elasticity and can absorb some of the limited energy that come up with a slight fall.

 

B. Power cord (Dynamic rope)

Its technical characteristics and dynamic reserves, it can slow down the impact strength, absorb falling energy. Used in climbing and mountaineering.

 

C. Single rope

Just as the name suggests, is used alone. Designed for climbing surfaces of rock, it is best suited for routes that are near vertical and do not descend from the rope.

 

D. Double rope

Double ropes are mainly used together for mountain climbing and for climbing down the long course of rock climbing. (Note: double rope is thicker than a single rope, generally use two ropes together, when the risk of falling is gonna happen rarely, a small single rope can also be used alone). It is in the protection of the quality is not very *, such as ice and snow environment, the performance is also very good.

 

E. Twin rope

Because it is always needed to use the two ropes together, so the application is very limited, it is best to stop the production of this rope. We already have kind of a double rope IceLine and as lightweight as these twin ropes. 

 

F. Different rope for different kinds of climbing (Rope by activity)

Mountaineering, rock climbing, cave expedition or travel have their unique requirements on the ropes, assorted climbing ropes are technically designed for different activities, so it is best to choose the most suitable ones for your range and level of climbing.

 

G. Mark on the rope head

In the rope generally marked:

 

H. Rope length

 

I. Type of rope: ① single rope; (1/2) double rope; (00) twin rope; C valley rope; O travel rope

 

J. Compliance Criteria: CE European Standard UIAA (Union International Alpine Association) Standard

 

2. Basic indicators

A. Impact force

For a single rope, the standard requirement to stop an 80KG heavy object from falling is 2 (note: the fall factor listed in the following text) the falling process can not exceed 12 kN. On the double rope, it needs to stop the 55KG coefficient of 2 in the fall of no more than 8 kN. After a number of shocks and use, the impact force absorbent capacity of the rope will decrease. The smaller the impact force of the rope you choose, the longer you can use it.

 

B. Knot ability 

Diameter of a single knot with a 10 KG tension must be less than 1.1 times of the diameter of the rope, the smaller that number is, more flexible the rope will become.

C. Number of falls

To meet the standard, the rope must be able to bear the constant 5 times of falling whose coefficient is 2. The number of available falls is reduced with the increased times of using the rope, so the greater the number of falls the climbing rope is able to cope with, the longer time it can be used. Note: The number of double rope and single rope fall is not comparable because they are tested with different weight of the falls.

 

 

 

D. Number of spindles 

The jacket is wrapped around the rope core, which is the visible part of the rope. It is made of a lot of strands, and each strand is wound on a spindle. For the same diameter, the bigger the number of spindles is, the better the dynamic it comes with,  less number of spindles comes with better anti wear. So a more powerful rope refers to 48 single rope (TopGun) or for more anti wear performance, and you should choose 32 single rope (WallMasterIII).

 

E. Extension (Extension)

In the 80KG pull, extension of single rope can not exceed 8%, that of double rope can not exceed 10%. It is this elasticity that allows the rope to absorb falling energy. The extension can not be too big, otherwise it will become a bungee rope.

 

F. Diameter and weight 

Larger diameter of the rope generally provides a longer usable period, but they are also heavier and not so portable. In the weight and ease to use important lines, it is best to choose some of the less bulky ropes. The overall performance of the rope should be considered as a balance between weight and power performance. Recommendation: the size of the measurement is not as accurate as the weight, it is best to compare the weight of the rope rather than size.

 

G. Sheath Slip 

Sheath and core are two separate parts, if their structure is not in good match, there will be a relatively sliding trend, the sheath began to deformation, being continuous friction of the descending device, the formation of loose areas around the core and Drum package, which is the casing effect. This phenomenon causes faster wear and tear, especially when it is protected or used at the top, and it may cause the rope to be obstructed on the descender or the protective device. Note: This is the only European standard (EuroNorm) and the UIAA requirements of different indicators. The European standard stipulates that the 2 meter rope is pulled on a particular device, the jacket sliding should be less than 40mm or 2%, while the UIAA standard is more stringent, which is less than 20mm or 1%

 

3. Falling factor

The fall factor is determined by the severity of the fall. The greater the coefficient comes with worse fall. In rock climbing, this coefficient varies from 0 to 2, which is calculated by dividing the falling distance by the length of the functioning rope. The severity of the fall is not a function of the falling distance, but the ratio, because the longer the rope is, the longer it can be extended to absorb the falling energy. Such as a falling of 5 meters, rope length is 2.5 meters, then the falling coefficient is 2.

 

4. impact

A. The impact is:

The power delivered to the climber when the fall is stopped. It also spreads through the rope to the anchor points, the carabiners and the belayer. The role of the rope is to absorb the falling energy, reduce the impact and its effect on the climber. The choice of rope is the basic factor. In this respect, quality of the rope is judged on the basis of its ability to reduce impact and the ability to preserve the climber after repeated shocks.

 

B. Maximum impact force

This is measured in accordance with the standard requirements, that is the most serious situation: the first fall, the coefficient is 2. This is the number given in the performance of the rope.

 

C. Variation of impact in a continuous fall, the dynamic performance of the rope is weakened and the impact force is strengthened. If the impact of a new rope is close to the upper limit of the standard, it can not be used as long life as other ropes with better dynamic performance.

 

Performance of the main rope

Firstly, climbing ropes must be with UIAA certified. UIAA has a strict request for qualified climbing ropes. For the single rope, two the most important factors are: the first impact force shall not be greater than 12kN (drop weight as 80kg), interval of five minutes (falling coefficient of 2) continuous falling for five times, the rope won't break down. But plerase do not consider that the ropes with same UIAA mark will share the same performance. Performance may vary greatly, the service life differentiate is also great. How to determine the difference in rope performance relies mainly from the following two aspects: the smallest impact force means that the climbers fall with better protection (and the protector and fixed point with the smaller pulling force) The higher the UIAA falls means the longer service life of the rope (the ability of the rope to remain ductile after constant falling ).

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